Fishing 4 idiots

Fly fishing rod weights - General guide

1 - 3 weight

* small flies
* short casts

4 weight

* small to medium trout
* small to medium flies
* short to medium casts

5 - 6 weight

* excellent all around trout rod.
* Handles small to larger flies
* short to longer casts

7 - 8 weight

* long casts and windy conditions.
* 7 weight is a great compromise sized rod for trout and light saltwater

9 - 14 weight

* large freshwater fish
* salt water fishing
* large flies
* long casts in open areas.


Choosing a fly fishing rod

Choosing a fly rod to match your required fishing situation/s can be difficult at times, but there are some questions you can answer to make the decision easier.

What type of fly fishing will you be doing?
No one is going to argue with me when I tell them that a trout doesn't quite match the fight of a marlin or even a tuna. Before purchasing a fly rod think about what kind of fishing you will be doing with it the majority of the time. Whether it is saltwater, freshwater, maybe even a bit of both you will be able to find the rod that suits you for most situations. If you want to catch trout, but would also like to do some light saltwater sports fishing you can make a compromise by choosing an all-rounder rod instead of a specialist rod. If you plan on doing some very different fishing (eg. trout then marlin) you will need two different fly fishing rods.

What type of action do I need?
I will try to keep this simple

Slow action fly rod (full flex)

* Great for smaller fish and smaller rivers
* Enhances the fight of even the smallest trout
* Designed for short casts

Medium/Moderate action fly rods

* Good all round rod type for many different situations
* Make longer casts
* Additional strength in the rod for fighting the fish

Fast action fly rods

* Stiff - lots of fighting power
* Allows really long casts in any conditions
* Easier to cast (due to the stiffness)
* Generally not used for trout, but for saltwater fly fishing

Which material do I want?

Fiberglass - has some fans

* cheap
* heavier
* strong

Graphite - most popular

* light
* strong
* easy to cast
* more expensive

Bamboo - the original

* heaviest
* expensive
* handling and feeling is amazing

I hope this little article has helped you in some way. Remember that you will most likely be able to get away with one all round rob, but if the fly fishing bug bites you will eventually upgrade to 3 or 4 specific models for more specific situations. Read more!

Understanding the tides helps you know when to fish. Just like people, fish have active periods and rest periods. Unlike people, fish's actives are determined by the tides. The tide tells the fish when to be on the move for food and when to rest. Because fish don't have eyelids, they cannot close their eyes to rest. Instead, most species remain inactive during certain tides.
Tides are up-and-down movements of the oceans caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun on the Earth. As the tide rises and falls, water flows in and out of bays, feeding behavior in fish. Whereas tidal changes have little effect far offshore and are of no concern to anglers who venture there in boats, tides are of the utmost importance when fishing inshore waters.
In most locations, the tide changes 4 times a day, resulting in 2 high tides and 2 low tides. Low tide occurs roughly 6 hours after high tide. At the end of each rising and falling tide, there is a period called 'slack tide', when there is little or no current, or movement of water, in or out of the bays, harbors, and estuaries. Slack tide usually lasts 2.75 to 3 hours, although it varies with location.
Published tide tables, such as those found in local newspapers, are general approximations. A strong wind from offshore can create a high tide sooner than predicted. When the wind is blowing against the incoming tide, the opposite occurs.
During slack tide, most saltwater predator fish that frequent inshore waters rest and do not seek food. Slack tide, therefore, is usually an unproductive time to fish inshore-which isn't to say that it's not worth a try. For example, anglers who like to be on the water at the very beginning of a tidal change often find themselves on the water during a slack tide. By presenting the proper bait, along with chumming or chunking, it is possible to provoke fish into feeding during a slack tide.
A rising tide is referred to as a 'flood tide'; a falling tide is called an 'ebb tide'. The change in water level is determined by the phase of the moon and the relative positions of the Earth, the moon and the sun.
Each month, the moon goes though 4 phases: new moon, first quarter, full moon, and last quarter (aka: third quarter). The new moon and the full moon occur when the moon, sun, and Earth are in a nearly direct line with one another. This increases the overall gravitational pull on the Earth, which causes relatively high high tides and relatively low low tides. These extreme tides are called 'spring tides', which has nothing to do with the season.
During the first quarter moon and the last quarter moon, the moon, sun, and Earth form the points of a triangle, with the Earth at the apex. This arrangement generates less gravitational pull on the earth, causing relatively low high tides and relatively high low tides. These more moderate tides are called 'neap tides'. Naturally, currents are stronger during spring tides than during neap tides.

Using the tide to Catch Fish
When the tide begins to ebb, the current forces baitfish into deeper water, concentrating them into smaller areas and making them easy prey for larger predator fish. The ebb tide thus trggers the predators' feeding instinct. Flood tides also trigger the feeding instinct and predator fish lie in wait for baitfish to flow into the mouths of inlets, bays, harbors, and estuaries or along the surf. Fishing action subsides during slack tides because baitfish disperse themselves, seeking shelter from predators. There are exceptions, but this is what happens with each ebb and flood tide for most areas on the East and West coasts and in the Gulf of Mexico.
As a rule of thumb, the best fishing takes place 1.5 to 2 hours after the ebb and flood tides begin. Tide tables appear daily in many newspapers, my website :), and many tackle shops give them away. Read them for the approximate times, but remember that weather conditions can make the tides occur earlier or later than "scheduled," and not all fish feed during a rising or falling tide. Read more!

1. I hear too many people saying “Whenever you get a bite, automatically jerk it up, to get it hooked.” I can’t stress enough that is not true. When you get a bite, just wait ‘till you get some tension then jerk up. I say this because, the fish could be biting on the other side, where the hook isn’t, then all you’re doing is scaring your catch away. And if you get some tension and you miss it, don’t reel it in all the way, because the fish might still be interested in your bait. So this proves that fishing does take patience.

2. Is Free lining good or is it bad? So many people have asked me that. And other people say what does “Free lining” even mean? Well free lining means to use no weight at all. I would suggest doing this if you are a wader or an inshore angler. I would say doing this because it presents the bait more naturally to the fish. Eg; When you cast, the bait doesn’t go strait down with a weight, rather is will float down with the current. And without the weight it will drift a long the current, where the fish are going. So why don’t you try free lining 1 time?

3. Boats can create noises, spooking fish, where waves slap against the hull. People moving around in a boat can create pressure waves coming away from the boat, alerting fish to your presence. Being able to cast great distances can get your lure or bait away from the boat, giving you an advantage over a shorter cast when fishing out of a boat. For maximum casting distance, consider using one of the ultra thin braided lines such as Power Pro. This thin line has virtually no memory, is far thinner than its monofilament pound test equivalent, and casts creating very little friction going through the eyelets of your rod. All of these factors translate into longer casts. You may also consider using a longer rod, perhaps 7’6”, for extra distance. If you prefer mono, be sure the spool is filled to within 1/8” of the rim of the spool. For even longer casts, consider dropping down in size of your mono line because thinner line casts farther. That long cast just may help you with catching a fish.

4. When you see seagulls hovering over the water, this means there are normally fish in that area. In order not to scare the fish, do not use your big motor when you get near the seagulls. Instead set up a drift or work your trolling motor as you get near or next to the seagulls in order not to scare the fish.

5. Just have fun fishing. Fishing is not a ‘who can do it better’ game. Just go out there and enjoy the beautiful weather. Read more!

Remember the the 'random tips' chapter posts? Well here is the last part of it. :)

Sight Fishing
When fishing the flats always make sure to look for tailing fish in shallow water. Most of the time you can spot these fish before you catch them.


Deep Sea fishing tip
Next time anybody goes out deep sea fishing do this it works. Take a coke can and cut a strip out about 1/2 in wide and 4 inches long pop a hole in it and have the deckhands slip it on your line and then tie your hook. You guessed it a spinner but when you are a few miles out this works. My dad and I were selling these on the boat for a 1.00 because nobody could figure out what they were.....lol. But we caught more fish than anyone so next time you go take this tip and bring the Icy Hot b/c you will need it that night.

bottom baits
bottom feeders can't resist these powersbaits sandworms, squid, sand eel, clams and other shellfish

Trolling tip
When you locate a school of fish while trolling, slow down while you turn around and into the school. The fishing rods on the inside of the turn drop deeper into the water, while the rods on the outside of the turn rise. Basically, you end up covering more area and keeping your baits in front of the fish longer

Well I hope you liked them and found them useful.. They are shot, sweet and to the point! Read more!

Keeping a fishing log is like putting a giant jigsaw puzzle together. One piece of the puzzle doesn’t give much to go on. Fishing is not an exact science, but the more information you have at hand, based on past experience, the better equipped you are to consistently find fish that are feeding. Anglers can learn much from logging their catch data and other pertinent information about their fishing trips.
Useful information might include, but not be limited to barometric pressure-- steady, high-rising, low- falling, etc., tide levels in feet and tenths of feet, plus tide direction, i.e., incoming, changing, out-going, etc., moon phases, wind direction and velocity, cloud cover, i.e., overcast, cloudy, sunny, etc., fish caught and where, on what time of the tide, water temperature, water clarity, and more. Perhaps the best tool for maintaining your log is the use of the Florida Sportsman Fishing Planner. This has the tides and moon phases on the planner, and all you need to add are the other bits and pieces to the puzzle to help you sort out the big picture, and these puzzle parts could just help you catch more fish. Read more!

Winter strike zones shrink as water temperatures drop. The colder the water for most species, the smaller the strike zone, making it even more important for an “in your face” presentation. Baitfish continually swim, with brief periods of stopping. The problem with most baitfish imitations is that they only look natural when they’re moving. As soon as they’re stopped, they sink to the bottom and lay on their sides…not so with a shrimp. In nature, shrimp sit on the bottom, bury in the mud or grass, and basically do nothing. They’re not swimming most the time like most baitfish, but do drift with the current. Artificial shrimp, like those from DOA Lures can mimic this crustacean to the letter. This bait can stay in the strike zone as long as desired, giving fish an opportunity to eat it. Some new suspending baitfish imitations like the Rapala Twitchin’ Rap and the MirrOlure MirrOdine and MirrOminnow can be worked slowly enough and “hover” in the water column for a similar presentation, making them effective winter canal baits. Try one of these baits in the winter and you may find that you’ll catch more fish. Read more!

A leader is a length of monofilament of fluorocarbon line or flexible wire positioned between the main line and hook or lure. A leader can serve 2 purposes: prevent line-shy fish from seeing the more visible main line, and prevent sharp-toothed fish from biting the line in 2. Monofilament leaders are usually between 1 and 3 feel long; most wire leaders range from 6 to 24 inches.
Monofilament and fluorocarbon leaders usually have a greater pound-test rating than the main line. A swivel should be used between the leader and the main line to keep the main line from twisting.
Because of its transparency, fluorocarbon leader is best for particularly line-shy fish, such as albacore and bonito. Black flexible wire leader is also almost invisible and is effective for sharp-toothed fish, such as mackerel, bluefish, and barracuda.
If a wire leader becomes kinked when you're fighting a fish, it has been seriously weakened and should be replaced. Read more!

Cooler water temperatures means less algae in the bays, which in turn means much clearer water. On calm days sight fishing is at its best, and worst. Your ability to see fish is only matched by their ability to see you as well. Extra long casts are necessary to put baits far enough from you and the boat so fish are unaware of your presence. While many monofilaments and braided lines are visible, the use of Fluorocarbon leaders makes the connection between you and your bait invisible. While a “normal” length leader might be a couple of feet long, increasing the length of your leader to 4 or 5 feet will give you an added measure of stealth. Unwary fish are more likely to bite, and longer casts, longer leaders, and the use of a good fluorocarbon material, such as Hi-Seas will give you the stealth edge that may help you catch more fish. Read more!

Other Essential Equipment
A cooler (stocked with ice) keeps beverages and lunch cold and your catch fresh. Consider the cooler's weight, bulk, and durability when purchasing, as well as the size and quantity of fish you expect to keep. The cooler must be able to close completely without the fish's tails hanging out. Wheels can be a nice feature, but they are not useful on soft sand or uneven jetties.
Fingernail clippers make clean cuts in fishing line. This essential piece of equipment is inexpensive and small enough to store in a tackle box compartment.
A bait knife, used primarily to cut bait, is useful, inexpensive, multipurpose tool. Get one that is heavy duty and the right size to store easily in your tackle box. Some bait knives have a serrated edge, good for removing fish scales.
A Fillet knife is fine bladed and very sharp and should be used only for filleting fish. Keep yours sharp and out of harm's way, in its own compartment in your tackle box.
Use a chum pot to disperse small, chopped-up bits of fish discards into the water to attract fish to the vicinity of your baited hook or lure. Most commercially make chum pots look like perforated cylinders (usually metal, often plastic coated), but almost anything-a covered plastic pail, an onion sack-can serve the purpose.

Thanks for reading all 4 parts of Getting Equipped! Hope you enjoyed them! Read more!

Essential Fishing Equipment

Rods and Reels
For the beginning angler, a good choice of rod is a 6- to 7- foot moderate- to fast-action spinning rod. It is sufficient for just about every type of fish, from Scup to large Bluefish or even striped bass. And after you've gained experience and acquired definite opinions, you can increase your rod inventory judiciously.
With the rod you will need a spinning reel to match the spinning rod. The spinning reel should be capable of holding at least 150 yards of 20- to 30-pound test mono filament line. But I recommend you use that pound test except use Power Pro, 'cause this type of line is braided and can hold up to about 2 to 4 times the size pound.
You could also avoid any question of properly matching the rod and reel by purchasing a rod and reel combination outfit. The manufacturer has already done the thinking for ya.

For hooks and lures, it's best to learn the type of fish that are running and which species can be targeted in the area you intend to fish. The tackle shop owner should know what size and types of hooks, or lure size(s) are best for the particular targeted species and the local fishing area.

That is the end of part 2. Read part 3 for Tackle boxes & backpacks, Gaffs & nets and Hook removal tool(s). Read more!

This picture is pretty easy and self explanatory. So I don't need to go into much detail. But if you still need help I will post more instructions. Read more!

Here is Part 2 of the random tips section. For now this is the last part. But I will add a part 3 someday.

Birds Hovering
When you see seagulls hovering over the water, this means there are normally fish in that area. In order not to scare the fish, do not use your big motor when you get near the seagulls. Instead set up a drift or work your trolling motor as you get near or next to the seagulls in order not to scare the fish...

Find Holes in the Beach
Finding the deeper water, the pockets that hold fish, is the key to finding fish along a beach. Some beaches are flat with just slight depressions; while others have distinct holes with severe drop-offs. In clear water and bright sun, look for the blue-green holes contrasting with the sandbars. In low light or when the water is discolored, you need to look at the shoreline and watch wave action for clues. Along some beaches, sand walls form in front of the bigger holes. They can be three to four feet high. A bowl between two points usually is a deep pocket of water, if the beach's slope is steep. Watching wave action and how the white water moves over the beach's contour is the best way to find good water. Along flat sections of beach, which are devoid of holding water, waves break then roll all the way to the shore. In sections with sandbars and holes, the wave breaks over the bar, rolls for a distance, then disappears. Where this wall of white water disappears is the inside edge of the hole. Watch surface bubbles to determine the flow's direction. This flow moves from the corner back to the deeper water in the hole's middle, or in the case of a very large hole creates a long section of moving, fishable water. Without wave action look for a current line indicating a sandbar with a drop-off on the backside.

Brine a Bait
critical key to all live-bait rigging is hook positioning. The bait must swim naturally but you need to be careful not to hook the fish so deep that you injure it, yet deep enough so the hook doesn't tear free. Here are four basic rigs.

A popular method for slow trolling is to nose-hook the bait (through the upper jaw, not both jaws, if you want it to live longer). However, when anchored or drifting, a nose-hooked bait will eventually want to swim back under the boat.

To encourage the bait to swim away from the boat, rig the hook in the fleshy part of the bait's shoulder, just ahead of the dorsal fin.

Rigging the hook sideways through the flesh at the front of the eye allows the bait to swim naturally at the surface or when trolled.

Finally, if you want the bait to swim away from the boat and down, hook through its meaty belly above the vent.

Break a Giant
Setting the drag on a 50-, 80- or 130-pound stand-up outfit is a pre-game ritual. Knowing how to use it will keep you on top of the game when you encounter an adversary capable of really challenging your tackle and skill.

To break a big fish fast, you'll want three clearly marked settings. First set "strike" at 33 percent of the line's breaking strength. Then locate a "pre-strike" position at 25 percent, usually about a finger's width before "strike." Mark it with a piece of colored electrical tape on the reel frame. This is done so that when you push the lever to "full" it should generate approximately 50 percent of the line rating.

Why three? Beating big fish is as much about breaking its will as tiring it out and you can do it by continually increasing pressure as the contest unfolds. On the fish's initial run, the drag is at "pre-strike." The line should always be moving either in or out. When the fish stops, you pump. When it runs, you rest. When it turns and makes another run, push the drag up to "strike," lean back, enjoy the ride. It stops, you pump. If it makes another run, go to "full" and lean back hard against the drag pressure. Use this method and you'll find that you can break virtually any fish.

Don't get rocked
When fishing in tight to structure, it's inevitable that you will get "rocked" — a term commonly used by fishermen when an aggressive fish grabs a bait or lure and buries its head in the rocks, weeds or kelp. Before you give up and resort to snapping the line, there are a couple of proven tricks to try.

Before pulling hard and possibly fraying the line against sharp structure, drop the rod tip and let the line go slack. By relaxing the pressure for a few seconds, a fish will sometimes respond by swimming out from the protection of its cover. For fish that are slow to respond to this approach, slowly bring the line tight, and as you ease back on your rod tip, start strumming the taught line like a guitar string. This works best in shallower water and seems to drive some fish crazy, often bolting to escape the annoyance.

If these methods fail and you can pull the boat's anchor, try maneuvering around the structure. Pulling from different angles will sometimes allow you to work free. Where kelp is the culprit, a sustained pull with monofilament line will sometimes pay dividends by cutting through the supple vegetation and allowing you to resume fighting your fish.

Lively Bait
Keep baiy lively longer by changing the livewell water with bay water. One bucket out, one bucket in. You will be able to tell the difference.

Live Bait & Kayaking
I have a kayak and do saltwater fishing. There isn't much room as you might guess. I found a float that is covered by a net for putting my catch in. I got it a W-Mart for around $15. It floats behind the Yak. I use live shrimp, so, I've been using a bait bucket which is a pain. I noticed that the little lady put her dainties in a mesh bag when she does the wash. I got one of those, put it in my bait bucket. When I launch, I put it inside the floating ring and cinch it so the shrimp will stay secure. The shrimp are in fresh water all the time and it is a heck of a lot easier to use one devise than it is to use two.

Give 'em Sound
Speckled trout are some of the most sought-after saltwater fish in the Gulf coast of the U.S. The most common lure/bait used to catch specks is live minnows or shrimp. However, artificial crankbaits with internal rattles are some of the most effective speckled trout lures. Specks love loud prey, therefore crankbaits with rattles stand out and draw attention and action.

Contrasting Colors
When fishing for flounder, sea trout, redfish, snapper, etc., anglers tend to use artificial lures with soft-plastic tails and jug heads as hooks (resempling a shrimp or minnow). Try to use contrasting-colored jig heads. If you have a light-colored lure, try using a red jig head. If your lure is dark-colored, use a white jig head. Contrasting colors draw more attention to your lure.

tying heavy mono
It is very hard to get a heavy mono leader tied to heavy line. Spray the line with windex or other glass cleaning substance. This makes it easier. Read more!

Hooks Rusty?
Have rusty hooks and swivels in your tackle box? Adding a little talcum/baby powder after use will absorb the moisture and keep your equipment from rusting. It can also be put in your wader boots to keep your feet dry. If it kept your bottom dry when you were a baby, it will work on your equipment as well.

Using circle hooks
If you're in search of higher hookup ratios, try using a circle hook. These hooks, though not very well known, are gaining popularity as word gets around about their benefits. Circle hooks will not only guarantee more landed fish, because of the small gap, and the inverted point, they are also better for the fish since they generally hook in the lip and rarely in the gut.

Stalking fish
Avoid fishing in clear water unless you see bait fish activity or diving birds. Fishing in clear water spooks the fish too easily so look for off color water for the best fishing.

Using shrimp
When using live shrimp for bait, try using larger than normal hooks such as #3 Treble or #3 Wide Gap. By using the larger hooks, the undersized fish that are released will have a much better chance of survival.

Fish the Flats
To the beginner, it seems impossible. To the veteran, it's a snap. Make no mistake, spotting fish on the flats or in the shallows is an acquired talent. It is essential to first have a tight-fitting pair of high quality sunglasses. I prefer tan, brown or copper lenses. And keep them clean. Wear a hat with a dark brim. On large, light-colored flats with good sun, the best way to spot a fish is to look for its shadow. Also look for movement and try to pick out the parts of a fish, like the tail, eye or fin. Bigger fish and groups or schools of fish are easier to spot. Fish that move from a dark bottom to light flat look like blue-green torpedoes until their body chemistry changes their color to blend with the bottom. If possible, the novice should choose locations where fish flow from dark to light bottoms.

On dark flats or in low light, check the surface looking for fins, tails or wakes; even just the slightest ripple that exposes a fish's presence. Height above the water makes spotting fish easier but you also become more visible. When visibility is good, cover the surrounding water from 35 to 100 feet; when visibility is poor, cut that distance in half. Concentrate about 80 percent of the time watching water within casting distance.

More to come soon. "To Be Continued!" Read more!

Kayak fishing has been the way to go. Because all the fish hear is the small little splash as you paddle. So you can get close to the big whopper without alerting it. Also a kayak can be outfitted with almost everything you need. Another advantage is you don't have to own a kayak you can rent one. And its not that expensive. So next time you fish, you might just want to try using a kayak. Read more!

As usual here is another tip, I have gathered from experience. Hope it helps!

Somewhere between fall and winter, when chilling fronts begin to move south, most of the baitfish leave the bays for deeper waters of the Gulf. In that change of locale, inshore predators switch from fish to crustaceans. Live shrimp and artificial shrimp like those from D.O.A. and Berkley Gulp become the mainstay in inshore diets. Glass minnows remain, but are difficult to put on a hook or keep alive, however the MirrOminnow by MirrOlure and fly pattern imitations like the Carl Hanson Glass Minnow give an alternative for hungry backwater snook. The switch from fish to crustaceans is eminent. For a more aggressive fall/winter catch, try shrimp. You’ll be surprised in the action, and you may find that you just catch more fish.

And for my fishing 4'casts (Well's Daily forecast):
I am sorry I am going to be a little late on posting them, as I am going to just start making them tonight. So this is why I suggest you go to gulf fishing and get a subscription.
Thanks for visiting fishing4idiots! Read more!

Trolling with controlled depth devices will put your lures and baits in the strike zone where fish are feeding when offshore fishing. Covering the water column will help you pinpoint where fish are holding. Aside from having a good depth recorder to mark fish, fish can be located by utilizing flat lines, planers, downriggers, and lipped artificial baits that will run at given depths at or below the surface essentially covering depths from top to bottom putting them where your targets live…and eat! Read more!

Sorry I have not been posting as much the last past week. But this weekend I am going to go fishing. Because the full moon is on the way and is almost here! So that means good fishing! If you want to check what times then visit the 4cast's section I made for you. So here are a couple tips;

• When you get a loop in your reel, then do the following procedure:
1: Open the hatch and put it down and then continusally pull the line out into the water so you won't get a knot in the line. Do this until the loop comes out of the reel.
2: Pick up the rod and close the hatch and put a slight tension on the line with 2 fingers and then slowly reel in. And there you go, no more loop ☺

• When you get snagged (caught) on a rock then hold the reel so no line can get through and then pull straight out (Horizontally). You might loose your hooks if you get snagged on a rock.

• As I have said so many times, rinse off everything you used in freshwater that you used while saltwater fishing. This will keep your hooks from rusting, and will keep your reel lasting longer.

• Store your poles in a dark place. This is because sunlight causes the most damage to fishing line. So if you keep your fishing pole in a dark place you should not ever have to change line for line being able to break easily.

Hope those tips helped you. Don't forget do my monthly poll (Left hand side task bar, half way down)
Thanks! Read more!

Free Lining is where you use no weight at all, just your leader line, your bait, and your hook. This can be good when fishing inshore. I just went out to the 2nd Bridge leading out to Honeymoon Island and I was free lining. And there was this girl that was using around a 4oz weight, and a piece of bait, and she was not catching anything. And then once I suggested for her to switch over to free lining she instantaneously got a nice size lizard fish. I also caught about a 7 inch puffer fish free lining.

If there is a strong current and your bait keeps coming back to you then you could add a medium size split-shot. But if you don't like the idea of no weight at all, then you can still use a small split-shot, and that is almost the same as free lining.

The reason free lining works a lot of people say is because of your bait will more naturally float down further, instead of a tug and a pull and a big splash that scares away the fish.
So if you use a lot of weight and not catching as much as you want, you might want to try free lining. Good luck!
(Make sure you check the monthly poll on the left hand side task bar. Thanks) Read more!

With king and Spanish mackerel moving into the Suncoast, it’s time to get out the binoculars. Fishing the beaches on some hard bottom can be very productive in the fall and spring for mackerel. East winds can flatten seas, clearing Gulf waters. Clear water scenarios will push baitfish on to the beaches, bringing mackerel in to feed. Trolling spoons around bait pods can produce some nice fish, but in times when winds clock around to the west, bait could move offshore a mile or more, making it more difficult to find fish. Flocking birds generally are a sign of bait schools and it’s likely that pelagics will be right behind. A good pair of binoculars can spot flocks of birds several miles away on the horizon for those days when beach fishing isn’t happening. Don’t get lenses that are too powerful, since keeping them steady on a rocking boat may make it difficult to focus on objects. Typically 7 X 35 or 7 X 50 will give you good magnification and a decent field of view. Finding birds with your binoculars just may help you catch more fish.

-Also don't forget about the monthly poll I added, on the left side taskbar about half way down.
thanks!- Read more!

Florida Fishing Seasons

• Winter (December - March)
  Red and Black Grouper, Black Sea Bass, several varieties of Snapper, Trigger fish, Porgies, and several other delicious species.

• Spring (April - June)
  Red and Black Grouper, King Mackerel, Cobia, Spanish Mackerel, Tripletail, Amberjack, Tuna, several varieties of Jacks and Snappers, and many types of Shark.

• Summer (July - September)
  Red and Black Grouper, Spanish mackerel, Mahi-mahi (dolphin fish), Amberjack, Barracuda, several varieties of Snapper and Shark.

• Fall (October - November)
  Red and Black Grouper, King Mackerel, Cobia, Amberjack, Grouper, Scamp, Tuna, and several varieties of Jacks and Snappers

Read more!