Fishing 4 idiots

Understanding the tides helps you know when to fish. Just like people, fish have active periods and rest periods. Unlike people, fish's actives are determined by the tides. The tide tells the fish when to be on the move for food and when to rest. Because fish don't have eyelids, they cannot close their eyes to rest. Instead, most species remain inactive during certain tides.
Tides are up-and-down movements of the oceans caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun on the Earth. As the tide rises and falls, water flows in and out of bays, feeding behavior in fish. Whereas tidal changes have little effect far offshore and are of no concern to anglers who venture there in boats, tides are of the utmost importance when fishing inshore waters.
In most locations, the tide changes 4 times a day, resulting in 2 high tides and 2 low tides. Low tide occurs roughly 6 hours after high tide. At the end of each rising and falling tide, there is a period called 'slack tide', when there is little or no current, or movement of water, in or out of the bays, harbors, and estuaries. Slack tide usually lasts 2.75 to 3 hours, although it varies with location.
Published tide tables, such as those found in local newspapers, are general approximations. A strong wind from offshore can create a high tide sooner than predicted. When the wind is blowing against the incoming tide, the opposite occurs.
During slack tide, most saltwater predator fish that frequent inshore waters rest and do not seek food. Slack tide, therefore, is usually an unproductive time to fish inshore-which isn't to say that it's not worth a try. For example, anglers who like to be on the water at the very beginning of a tidal change often find themselves on the water during a slack tide. By presenting the proper bait, along with chumming or chunking, it is possible to provoke fish into feeding during a slack tide.
A rising tide is referred to as a 'flood tide'; a falling tide is called an 'ebb tide'. The change in water level is determined by the phase of the moon and the relative positions of the Earth, the moon and the sun.
Each month, the moon goes though 4 phases: new moon, first quarter, full moon, and last quarter (aka: third quarter). The new moon and the full moon occur when the moon, sun, and Earth are in a nearly direct line with one another. This increases the overall gravitational pull on the Earth, which causes relatively high high tides and relatively low low tides. These extreme tides are called 'spring tides', which has nothing to do with the season.
During the first quarter moon and the last quarter moon, the moon, sun, and Earth form the points of a triangle, with the Earth at the apex. This arrangement generates less gravitational pull on the earth, causing relatively low high tides and relatively high low tides. These more moderate tides are called 'neap tides'. Naturally, currents are stronger during spring tides than during neap tides.

Using the tide to Catch Fish
When the tide begins to ebb, the current forces baitfish into deeper water, concentrating them into smaller areas and making them easy prey for larger predator fish. The ebb tide thus trggers the predators' feeding instinct. Flood tides also trigger the feeding instinct and predator fish lie in wait for baitfish to flow into the mouths of inlets, bays, harbors, and estuaries or along the surf. Fishing action subsides during slack tides because baitfish disperse themselves, seeking shelter from predators. There are exceptions, but this is what happens with each ebb and flood tide for most areas on the East and West coasts and in the Gulf of Mexico.
As a rule of thumb, the best fishing takes place 1.5 to 2 hours after the ebb and flood tides begin. Tide tables appear daily in many newspapers, my website :), and many tackle shops give them away. Read them for the approximate times, but remember that weather conditions can make the tides occur earlier or later than "scheduled," and not all fish feed during a rising or falling tide. Read more!

Buying, Handling, and Sharpening Hooks
Hooks are sold in bulk packages of from 10 to a hundred hooks or more, or in packages of 4 to 6 snelled hooks. Leave the hooks in the package until you need them, to keep them safe and neat and to keep the points from becoming dull. Packages of snelled hooks fit nicely in a tackle box. Keep them there, and don't let them get in a tangled mess.
The quality of a fishhook can be determined by its finish. Inexpensive hooks have a 'blued' finish and are made from carbon steel. They are used primarily for freshwater fishing and should be avoided for use on saltwater. Saltwater fishing requires materials with greater resistance to corrosion, such as nickel- or bronze-plated alloys or stainless steel. These cost slightly more than carbon steel hooks, but not too much more. Even among the superior alloys, there are differences. Hooks made from drawn wire are less expensive but not as strong as forged hooks.
Better hooks last longer and retain their sharp points longer than their less expensive counterparts. Some points are chemically sharpened; these cannot be mechanically sharpened when they get dull. Most hooks, however, can be sharpened by passing a sharpening stone or a hook hone along the sides of the barb and the point. This takes only a few seconds.
To check a hook's sharpness, don't try to poke yourself, rather rest the point of the hook at a 45-degree angle against your thumbnail, facing away from the cuticle. While applying pressure, move the point forward. If it grabs hold of the tubumnail, it's sharp enough. If it doesn't grab, it need to be sharpened.

I hope I have helped you understand hooks more now! Read more!

Shank Characteristics
J hooks are manufactured with short or long shanks. Long-shank hooks are used for sharp-toothed fish, such as bluefish and mackerel, allowing the fish to bite the shank and not the leader. They are also used for fish that suck in their food, such as winter flounder. The long shank makes removing the hook easier.

A long-shank hook provides room for the bait to be placed along the shank, which makes for better presentation of the bait and in most cases ensures that the bait will not fall off. A worm or fish can be stretched out along the whole length of the shank, looking much more natural than if it were curled around the bend of the hook.
Short-shank hooks are used with smaller pieces of cut bait or shrimp, because the hook can be more effectively hidden within the bait. Short-shank hooks take up little space in the tackle box and can be easily removed from smaller fish that do not inhale their food.
Some J hooks have bait barbs on the shank, which prevent the lager pieces of bait from sliding into a ball at the bend of the hook. Where natural bait presentation is important, these barbs are most helpful. Read more!

Sorry for the lateness for the post. Well here it is hope you enjoy!!

If you're accustomed to J hooks, using circle hooks involves some adjustment. Instead of setting the hook by sharply pulling back on the rod, apply steady pressure on the line, bringing it in evenly and slowly. Avoid jerking the rod to prevent pulling the hook from the fish's mouth.
Packaged snelled hooks have monofilament or wire leader attached. The strength of the leader can range from 3o-to-80 pound test and above, and leader length varies considerably. The leader has a loop at the end opposite the hook, making tying on quick and easy. Snelled hooks are available in J and C hooks.
Some anglers snell their own hooks, buying their hooks in bulk, and the leader material separately. Although snelling a hook takes a little longer, it's not difficult. (See under TOC 'Knots' for a website on how to tie a snell.)
Most fishing lures have one or more sets of treble, or 3-pointed, hooks. These range in size from #6 through 8/0. Treble hooks are strong and can withstand abuse, but they require much care in hangling, especially when you attempt to remove the lure from a hooked fish.
Manufacturers put treble hooks on lures to improve the hook-up ratio, based on the logical theory that 3 points are than 1. But some anglers (like me) replace treble hooks with J hooks for safety and convenience. Switching them is simple because the hooks are held onto the lure with split rings, which can be pried open easily. Wheather you keep the treble hooks or replace them is a matter of personal preference.

I bet you didn't think hooks could be this complicated, did ya?? I am hoping I am helping you understand hooks better. And I will have 2 more parts; Part 4 is on Shank Characteristics and part 5 is on Sharpening Hooks. Read more!

Hook Size
Fishhook size is designated numerically. Below a certain size, the lager the number, the small the hook. A number 10 hook, therefore, is smaller than a number 4 hook of the same style. Hooks larger than the number 1 use a different system, however. A number followed by a slash and a zero indicates a large hook, and the numbers increase with the hook size. Thus, a number 5/0 hook is lager than a 2/0 hook, which is larger than a number 10 hook.
The thickness of the hook in any given size should also be considered. A thin hook will penetrate more easily than a thick hook. If you're having trouble setting the hook, chances are that the hook is too thick for the targeted species, so use a thinner hook of the same size.

Hook Designs
There are 3 basic hook designs: conventional J hooks; circle, or C, hooks; and and treble hooks. J and C hooks are used primarily with bait; treble hooks are found on most saltwater plugs and lures. J and C hooks are available as snelled hooks of just regular 'ol hooks.
J Hooks which range in size from a number 8 to a huge 8/0 for saltwater species, have been used with natural bait for hundreds of years. They work well for most species of fish and are preferred by recreational saltwater anglers. The J hook requires a solid pull of the rod to set it in a fish's mouth.
Circle hooks, sometimes referred to as C hooks, are basically round, but the point is bent around 90 degrees from the shank. Unlike the situation with a J hook, a fish tends to lip-hook itself when it bites onto a circle hook and is much less likely to 'throw' the hook and escape. Circle hooks grab the corner of a fish's mouth and hold firmly until the fish is landed, and thus have an excellent hook-up ratio. This self-setting performance has made this the hook of choice for commercial longline fishermen for years. Circle hooks are becoming quite popular with saltwater hook-and-release anglers because they are easily removed with little if any injury to the fish. Circle hooks are not available in small sizes though. They start at number 4 and go up to 15/0 and even larger.

To be continued.......................... Read more!

When you're fishing on salt water, you never know what species of fish you may encounter. You might be fishing for Fluke and get a bluefish. If you have a decent assortment of hooks in your tackle box, it's a small mater to change your terminal rig to "accommodate" the bluefish.
Hooks are chosen according to the size and species of fish targeted the type of bait used, and the method of fishing. There is no formula for selecting the right hook because there are many variables, including the size of the fish's mouth, its strength as a swimmer, its method of fighting, and the way it goes about grabbing bait. But as a rule of thumb, the larger the fish, the larger the hook. Most anglers do just fine with a few hooks of different sizes that are appropriate to the most common species of fish in the area where they're fishing. Don't be shy about asking at the tackle shop what kinds of hook work well.

Hook Selection
Consider the size of the fish's mouth when selecting a hook. The fish has to be able to get the bait into its mouth, and the bait should be large enough to cover most of the hook. A hook that is too large means too much bait for the fish, or a lot of exposed metal that the fish may not like the looks of. On the other hand, small hooks don't hold big fish very well. Conversely, if the hook is too small, the fish may swallow it, making its removal almost impossible.
The correct hook is the smallest one that is strong enough to land the desired fish. The smaller and lighter the hook, the less visible it will be to the fish and the more likely it will present the bait in a natural manner.

Next Hook section, will be about Hook Size and I will also get into some of the Hook Designs. I plan to have 3 maybe 4 parts.
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Controlled depth fishing with lures is a method of getting baits at the same level fish are holding. Because the water column can be a very broad range, fishing somewhere in between the top and bottom might require special equipment. Downriggers are the most precise tools to lower baits to a given level. Planers, depending on the size and line diameter used to pull them, will also take baits below the surface within a certain depth range for each size planer. Covering the water column with a variety of lures fished at different depths is a sure way to locate fish. It gives you the opportunity to present your lures to more fish. That will ultimately help you catch more fish. Read more!

A leader is a length of monofilament of fluorocarbon line or flexible wire positioned between the main line and hook or lure. A leader can serve 2 purposes: prevent line-shy fish from seeing the more visible main line, and prevent sharp-toothed fish from biting the line in 2. Monofilament leaders are usually between 1 and 3 feel long; most wire leaders range from 6 to 24 inches.
Monofilament and fluorocarbon leaders usually have a greater pound-test rating than the main line. A swivel should be used between the leader and the main line to keep the main line from twisting.
Because of its transparency, fluorocarbon leader is best for particularly line-shy fish, such as albacore and bonito. Black flexible wire leader is also almost invisible and is effective for sharp-toothed fish, such as mackerel, bluefish, and barracuda.
If a wire leader becomes kinked when you're fighting a fish, it has been seriously weakened and should be replaced. Read more!

I just was asked how to use a plug and thought might as well put it on here also.
How to use a plug
The size of the lure you use is determined by the size and shape of the baitfish in the area. The size of the lure often determines the size of the fish you catch. If you're using a 3-inch plug and you're catching average-size fish, use the next larger size of the same style of lure to tempt larger predator fish lurking nearby.
Always keep the plug moving, and make it look like a struggling or injured baitfish doing its best to get away from the predator you're after. Vary the retrieval speed from one cast to the next, and even during a single retrieve. Some anglers apply a frequent, quick, stop-and-go reeling technique in addition to short or long jerks of the rod tip to vary the lure's performance. Don't let the lure remain stationary for more than a few seconds or allow it to go too slowly: that will give predators a chance to take a long, hard look at the lure, and then they might not like what they see. It's okay to stop reeling briefly to allow the lure to flutter down, then rapidly jerk it forward.
Keep the tip of the rod high. This tends to tilt the lure's head slightly upward during it retrieval, creating a lot of disturbance through the water. As the lure nears the rod, lower the rod tip to allow the lure to maintain the same angle.
If you see a fish chasing the lure, adjust the retrieval speed by jerking or jigging to give extra realism to your impersonation of a fleeing baitfish. If you fail to hook your target on the first approach, don't stop or slow the retrieve. Keep the lure moving, along with a few additional twitches here and there to increase the appearance of panic. Many times the same fish will come back and attack the lure again.

Hope that helped!! I will try to get the calendar and 4casts for December up. And have a happy holiday! Read more!

When Fishing...
35.) Always wait and extra second, or until you feel a lot of pressure, before reeling in.
36.) When trying to free a line that is hung up on the bottom, don't attempt to pull the line with your hand. Instead, wrap the line around the outside of the reel or around the real seat of the rod at least 3 times, then yank. You will either pull the line free from the bottom or break the line, but at least you'll prevent injuring your fingers or hand.
37.) To prevent slack line above the water from developing into a "belly" under windy conditions, keep the tip of the rod low and pointed toward the water. This will let you feel a strike more readily.
38.) If a fish manages to foul the line on structure, slacken the line and wait until the fish swims out again, possibly freeing the line. Attempting to force the fish out by reeling in will likely result in a broken line, a lots fish-which may remain hook to the structure by the fouled line.
39.) When fishing in the surf, set the reel drag according the lure being used. Use a lighter drag for surface plugs than for metal spoons, jigs and sinking plugs. To make setting the hook easier when you're baitfishing with a sinker, set the drag tighter than you would fishing with lures.
40.) When fishing for bottom-dwelling species with natural bait, drop the tip of the rod a few inches as you feel a bite. Doing so will give the fish a chance to take the hook more completely into its mouth.
41.) When drifting, allow the sinker to bounce along the bottom 3 to 6 inches below a snelled hook.
42.) When fishing with bait, allow the sinker appropriate to the bottom composition to hold bottom effectively and avoid hang-ups.
43.) When bottom fishing, use the lightest sinker possible that will still hold bottom.
44.) When using jigs to fish from a boat for bottom-dwelling predator fish, lower the jig under the boat and begin to jig the lure up and down, or cast the jig away from the boat and slowly retrieve it while providing lots of action.
45.) When fish are feeding on the surface, never run your boat through them. It will frighten the fish and incite them to dive. Instead, slowly run the boat about 75 feet from the edge of the feeding school, then turn off the engine and drift toward the school.
46.) Never attempt to stand while fish from a 16-foot skiff.
47.) Take motion-sickness remedies before heading offshore.
48.) Be courteous to your fellow anglers when fishing aboard a party boat. It will make the experience much more pleasant and productive for everyone.
49.) Follow the advice of the crew on board a party boat or charter boat. The crew has a gread deal of knowledge of local fish and conditions.
50.) When surf fishing, always look behind and to each side of you to make sure the area is clear before you cast.

Where to Fish
51.) Use marine charts to locate potential fishing locations in your area. You will clearly see the dead-low-water depths, depressions along the bottom such as deep holes, inlet mouths, estuaries, and structure locations.
52.) Sandbars in most inlets are good places to locate predator fish on the ebb (outgoing) tide.
53.) Predator fish are often found in white-water areas at the surf. Work your lure or baited hook in these areas.
54.) When fishing at the surf, walk along the beach and work the surf by casting several times into one area, then move to the next spot and cast again until a fish hits your line.
55.) A flock of gulls or terns hovering and diving over one spot is a sign that baitfish are being to the surface by predator fish. Cast your lure or baited hook into that area.
56. If the birds are not landing on the water, the feeding fish are probably a sharp-toothed species such as bluefish.

Thanks for reading all 4 parts of "56 fishing tips"!! And hope you found them all helpful to you in one way or another. Thanks as always for continuing to support my website by visiting, and would love to hear back. Any questions or comments can be directed by leaving a comment (will get back to you either way) or by Emailing me. Thanks and have a wonderful time fishing. And don't go catching those Goliath grouper's on 20-pound test lines.
Tight lines,
Alex Read more!

Bait And Chum
25.) Use ground-up bunker for chum; it also makes excellent bait if sliced. You can cut it or use it whole for striped bass, bluefish, or other predator fish.
26.) Keep live saltwater baitfish away from fresh water to keep them alive--DUH
27.) When fishing for large predator fish, don't overlook whole live natural sandworms or bloodworms. They are productive throughout the fishing season
28.) To find the predators that chase baitfish, check the protected areas of inlets and jetties where baitfish seek shelter from storms and wait until the surf calms down.
29.) Use whole squid or squid cut into small strips; squid is among the best baits to use for predator fish.
30.) Use chum whenever you're fishing for bottom-dwelling fish.
31.) When fishing with natural bait, if you feel a fish but fail to hook it, reel in and rebait the hook if necessary.
32.) Use only name-brand fishing line. Bargain-priced line and unknown brands often fail at the worst possible moment.
33.) When monofilament line feel rough or looks dull, change it; it's no longer strong. Cut off the worn section and splice on a new section using the simple blood knot.
34.) Use the improved blood knot to splice dissimilar-diameter fishing line.

Read Part 4 for "When Fishing....." And the last part, part 5 will be "Where to fish"
Thanks for reading my blog. Come back often for new updates. Tomorrow I will be updating the fishing 4cast. Because I went fishing today. Read more!

Tackle Tips
12.)Always use tackle and line that are good condition to avoid failure. Discard or repair worn gear.
13.)Use circle hooks whenever possible for ease of hook-up and removal. Fish seldom get these types of hooks caught in their throat.
14.)Keep a hook honing stone in your tackle box to dress up the point of the hook, and a piece of oiled emery cloth to remove rust deposits from equipment.
15.)Choose the lightest leader practical for the method of fishing. A heavy leader is visible to fish (and might spook them) and will affect the action of the lure or baited hook.
16.)Use light leader to tie your sinker to the rig when bottom fishing. If the sinker gets hung up, the leader will break and you won't lose the entire rig.
17.)Use wire leader when fishing for sharp-toothed fish.
18.)Always use some type of swivel to prevent the main line from twisting during the retrieve.
19.)Use a barrel swivel when fishing over heavy structure.
20.)Choose ball bearing swivels; they're a better investment than their cheaper counterparts.
21.)Choose bucktails if you're fishing in fast current; they can also be allowed to sink for bottom fishing.
22.)Improve your fishing success with diamond and bucktail jigs by placing a piece of squid, pork rind, or shrimp on the hook.
23.)Try using silver, white and yellow lures; these colors are productive because they mimic natural baitfish when being retrieved.
24.)When fishing for bluefish in the surf, use heavy spoons or surface plugs. Use fresh bunker or butter fish baits near the bottom.

Stay tuned for part 3; Bait and Chum. -Coming to a computer screen near you-
PS: I also update the fish and tip of the week check it out!

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Rod And Reel
1.) When purchasing a rod, look for one with lots of line guides. The more guides, the better the rod will perform.
2.) Never purchase a fishing rod that is not comfortable to hold. Check the Feel with a suitable reel in place.
3.) Conventional small-diameter line guides are good for bottom fishing or trolling with up to 40- or 50- pound test line. For heavier trolling, the entire rod should be equipped with roller guides.
4.) Conventional bait-casting reels are best suited for bottom fishing, for drifting natural bait in the current, or for trolling.
5.) Lubricate new fishing reels to ensure that no critical areas were overlooked at the factory. Use lightweight fishing reel grease sparingly at least once a year.
6.) When you are finished for the day, remember to loosen the drag on your reel.
7.)After each use, rinse your rod and reel with a gentle spray of fresh water to remove salt deposits and prevent corrosion.
8.) Before storing a reel for an extended period, soak it in fresh water for a couple of minutes to remove salt deposits, then allow it to dry throughly.
9.)Never place a reel directly on the sand while surf fishing. Always use a sand spike to support a surf rod and its reel to prevent the sand from damaging the reel.
10.)Fishing rods can break if they're placed in a car carelessly. Never leave a rod sticking out from a car door or window, or from under a truck lid. The rod tip is the most frequently broken part. Use a rod holder on the roof of the vehicle.
11.)Never keep a fully spooled fishing reel in the trunk or glove compartment of a car for extended periods. The heat buildup will weaken the fishing line and may damage the reel.

Read part 2 for Tackle Tips. Read more!

Handgrip
Saltwater fishing rods have 2 grips, or handles: 1 above the reel seat and 1 below it. The forward grip is used when setting the hook-pulling back the tip of the rod to make sure the fish is well and truly hooked. It is also used to help support the rod while fighting the fish. The aft grip, which is located at the bottom of the fishing rod, helps leverage and secure handhold. This is the grip you hold when casting. This is also where most anglers support the rod under their armpit.
When your fighting a fish without the benefit of a fighting belt, the belt, the butt end of the rod will often end up agents your belly or gut. That's why the butt is covered by a plastic or rubber cap.

Line Guides
Fishing rods have line guides (A.K.A rod guides) located at intervals along the rod blank to guide the fishing line in a straight course from the reel to the top of the rod. The more guides the better. When a rod bends under pressure of a fighting fish, the line changes angle at each line guide. More guides mean a easier change of direction, hence less strain on your line.
Large-looped guides are designed for long-distance casting and are compatible with spinning reels. The larger the less friction as the line passes through the guides.
Small-looped guides are usually found on boat rods, which are used when dropping the baited hook straight down from a boat (as opposed to casting it) when bottom fishing, drifting, or trolling smaller game fish.
A tip-top (picture) is the special line guide located at the top of the rod. It allows the line to exit smoothly at various angles. Most tip-tops are simple rings, but those used on big-game trolling boat rods often have rollers.

To check the smoothness of the guides on rods that have seen some use, pass a piece of nylon pantyhose through them, 1 guide at a time. The nylon will snag on any roughness, indicating that the guide should be replaced. Read more!